We’ve had a version of Dishoom in Brighton since they launched their dark kitchen with Deliveroo in 2020, but let’s be honest, there’s nothing like the full in-person experience.
Now, drinkers and diners can enjoy just that as the popular Indian restaurant group has opened Permit Room, a laidback all-day bar-cafe on the former Socialite site in Brighton’s Lanes.
The new offering leans more to the bar side of bar-cafe (it uses the Permit Room name on its drinks menus at other Dishooms already), but there is still plenty of great food, including some new dishes, to soak up the drinks with.
So what’s a Permit Room? Here’s a quick history lesson: in 1949, the Bombay Prohibition Act was passed, banning the sale of all booze. But Bombayites weren’t having that and, in true Prohibition fashion, resourceful locals started serving liquor in secret from home, bribing the police when they needed to. Come the 60s and 70s, the law changed and drinking was allowed again, providing you had a permit… enter the Permit Rooms of Bombay.
History lesson over and back to the food: more than half of the menu is veggie or vegan and there is zero red meat on offer. From their epic naan roll breakfasts (IYKYK) and crunchy chakli snacks, to tangy crispy spinach chaat (this is excellent), chicken tandoori, marinated mini squid, a boiled egg curry (we were not expecting to love this as much as we did), a seriously delicious tangy curry in ragda pattice, and a handful of nostalgic sweet treats like orange blossom jelly and ice-cream, plus a classic gulab jamun, they’ve got their bases covered.
Bombay’s colourful history serves as the inspiration for the bar’s wide drinks offering, across beer, low-intervention wines and cocktails. We’ve tried several of the cocktails now and, it’s safe to say, Brighton, you’re in for a treat.
There are martinis made from India’s fermented cashew apple spirit, Feni, mango lassi rum punches, a chai-infused twist on the espresso martini, a Sazerac made with the much-loved Indian Thums Up cola, and plenty of no-alcohol options. In case you’re interested, our favourite so far is Aunty’s Anjeer Manhattan, a medicinal figgy treat that’s punchy in all the right ways.
It’s not all cocktails either. They’ve teamed up with several local breweries to bring some Permit Room exclusives to the city – a great pineapple and black pepper crumble beer with Unbarred and a dry, fruity lager with Hand Co Brewery. And, of course, there’s Kingfisher on tap.
It wouldn’t be a Dishoom offering without excellent music, so there’ll be weekly Thursday DJ sessions with British South Asian talent platform Going South and an eclectic playlist on rotation the rest of the time. And, we should also note that if you have a four-legged friend, they are very welcome too.
From Wednesday 1st November
From 8am until late on weekdays; from 9am on weekends
31A – 32 East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HL
permitroom.co.uk
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