We love it when a business doesn’t just pay lip service to a trend and instead goes all out. Take Veganuary, for example. Rather than offer just a couple of vegan specials, neighbourhood gem Cin Cin has ditched all meat and fish for the month – instead, the vast majority of the Italian dishes on its January menu are vegan and the rest are vegetarian. And there’s not a single fake meat item in sight. It’s a brave decision to make, but one that’s definitely paid off.
We headed over to their relaxed Hove restaurant on a Tuesday evening (the best day to go if you’re looking for a bargain as you can take advantage of their £10 pasta and wine/beer/soft drink deal) and, as always, received a very warm welcome. It’s a small space, but whether you’re in the more secluded back room, at the buzzy counter surrounding the open kitchen (for the best view of the chefs in action), or in the tucked away corner behind the door, we’ve found you’ll get the same excellent service.
The drinks…
Whenever we’re in an Italian restaurant, we like to kick things off with an aperitivo and, for us, it has to be a negroni. Cin Cin’s has got a hefty kick and takes us back to the good side of the pandemic days when we first ordered their pre-mixed cocktails to accompany one of their finish-at-home Italian feasts. They’ve got a small but perfectly formed selection (the amaretto sour is another favourite), and a well-curated wine list, too. It was a school night for us, so we stuck to just the one.
The snacks…
To buy us valuable decision-making time (we were with a vegetarian who was so delighted she could eat absolutely everything on the menu she was struck with decision paralysis), we ordered all the snacks – Nocellara olives marinated in lemon, chilli and garlic; pesto focaccia; and panelle with truffled ricotta and balsamic onions.
If we’re being picky, the warm focaccia could have done with a touch more pesto for our tastes but the panelle (Sicilian fritters made from chickpea flour) were excellent, the onions beautifully cutting through the rich, earthy truffle flavour.
On to the starters proper…
Snacks demolished, we moved on to the starters, opting for the vegan crema di ceci, grilled Brussels sprouts, crostini and radicchio and the vegetarian arancino of roasted butternut squash and Gorgonzola with a walnut and sage sauce.
We loved the combination of textures and flavours in the vegan Brussels sprouts starter, from the perfectly cooked al dente sprouts (no soggy beasts here) to the crunchy crostini on a bed of delicate crema di ceci, a velvety hummous.
But it was the arancino that stole our hearts and stomachs. Cin Cin are – quite rightly – well known for their arancini and so we had high hopes for this vegetarian sphere of goodness. And happily, we weren’t disappointed. Creamy, cheesy and incredibly moreish, we could have easily ordered another, but there was too much else to try.
And the main event…
We chose the two vegetarian options in the end, but we’ll definitely be back to try the other vegan mains (especially the delicious-sounding salt-baked celeriac with black truffle sauce).
The handmade chestnut pizzoccheri (Cin Cin’s take on a pasta dish from the Lombardy region) with fontina, celeriac and January king cabbage was perfectly cooked and full of flavour, the buttery chestnut, sweet celeriac and nutty fontina in delicious harmony.
Our other choice was the gnocchi with green leek and peppercorn sauce and pickled shallot. For us, this was the epitome of a great winter dish: creamy, but with a kick.
It’s fair to say we’d probably eaten enough by this point, but we’re a sucker for a pudding and have never knowingly replied ‘no’ to the question ‘Would you like to see the dessert menu?’.
To finish…
The millefoglie of chocolate, spiced red wine-poached pear and caramel was a decadent treat, with the pear the perfect foil to the rich chocolate and sweet caramel. High-end Christmas on a plate.
The pistachio semifreddo with vanilla shortbread and Campari-soaked blood orange was another great flavour combo, teasing us with sweet and bitter notes, from the nutty pistachio and buttery crunch of the shortbread base to the tangy orange.
When it came to the puddings, we were split as to which one was our favourite, so we can’t advise you there. Suffice it to say, you can’t really go wrong.
Know what we also love about Cin Cin? The service. It’s always swift, warm and attentive, without ever being obtrusive. And this evening was no exception. Excellent service is the icing on the proverbial cake, or torta, if you like. It’s infuriating when a great meal is spoilt by sloppy service. And that’s definitely not happening here.
We also find we’ve always learnt some new Italian words after dining at Cin Cin – to save you googling next time a ribollita is a Tuscan bread soup. Oh, and the relaxed restaurant is dog-friendly, too – just give them a heads up you’ll be bringing a pooch.
In short: whether you’re already vegan or vegetarian or just looking to eat a bit less meat or fish, Cin Cin’s January menu is a great shout, showcasing the incredible versatility of veggies. With flavours this good, who needs meat anyway?
When?
The vegan à la carte menu is available at Cin Cin in Hove and London until 31st January. We’d get booking sharpish though, especially if you’re planning on going on a Tuesday. They’ve also got a vegan chef’s menu for the month, with five courses costing £45 per person, with an optional wine flight at £35.
Want (even) more Cin Cin in your life? Then head over to their sixth birthday feast on 18th January, which sees them collaborate with Passione Vino wines for a six-course pairing menu exploring the north of Italy.
Open Tuesday to Saturday inclusive; dogs allowed
60 Western Road, Hove, BN3 1JD
cincin.co.uk
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