Catch & Grill is a new incarnation of a steakhouse that used to be at this spot on Hove’s Church Road and is attached to the Third Avenue bar and restaurant next door.
Both venues have been significantly renovated since their reopening late last year and the former is very pleasantly done – think pastel shades, velour banquettes and mood lighting. Soft music also plays in the background and tables are candlelit, so there is a kind of ‘first dates’/romantic vibe about the destination too, though it doesn’t feel too try-hard.
Service comes with a smile but is not intrusive, though when we asked about whether the meat was locally sourced, we were met with an unconvincing nod of the head. That’s a shame because knowledge about the food is always a plus and shows attention to detail, especially with Catch & Grill facing stiff competition in this part of town with the likes of foodie haven Fourth and Church and newcomer Carne.
Nevertheless, the food itself is good, and while it’s mostly seafood and steak, many dishes come with an imaginative Spanish twist. The sardine starter is “perfect”, according to our dining partner, and comes with mojo rojo sauce, while the crispy fried squid in black aioli is a cut above the dreaded breaded version that typifies this appetiser in many establishments.
The mains, however, are where Catch & Grill really excel. The rib-eye steak is melt-in-the-mouth, cooked-to-perfection goodness, accompanied by on-trend bone marrow butter, with the crispy fries exactly as billed. The seabass is also good, though we deducted a few points for it being served in a similar sauce to the sardines.
There is a decent cocktail menu thanks to the bar next door, but only limited wines by the glass, particularly the white. In these straitened times it would be good to see more options as a bottle of wine is not always the most economic choice – the house white comes in at a not insubstantial £26 a throw.
Our one minor gripe, this being a Thursday night, is the lack of atmosphere – ours was the only booking when we were there, but maybe it can be put down to the fact it was the tail end of spring when not so many people venture out. A straw poll of nearby venues seemed to confirm this as they were similarly quiet. However, it could also be indicative of Catch & Grill’s pricing, which is pretty high end, putting it more in the special occasion, rather than local eatery, bracket.
Catch & Grill, 70 Church Road, Hove BN3 2FP
Open Tuesdays to Thursdays, midday – 3pm and 5pm – 9.30pm; Saturdays, midday – 10pm and Sundays midday – 5pm
catchandgrill.co.uk
By Robin Newbold
Photo credits: Foarke and Gil Ganyon (sardines and seabass)
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