Yasir Hareed

Recently rebranded into a well-priced steak restaurant with a pared-back menu, Kindling delivers an excellent overall experience with friendly staff and top-notch food making it a must-visit destination. The restaurant’s been on a bit of a journey since it first opened in 2019. It previously operated under a small plates concept, with the focus on seasonality, sustainability and minimal waste. Owners Ramon Mostowfi and Minky Lee are now taking the restaurant in a different direction, driven by what they saw as a gap in the market for “a more casual, reasonably priced dining option” where you could get “a high-quality meal without all the frills”. They wanted to create an experience that was more accessible, somewhere where you could head to eat just because, not a restaurant that was reserved for special occasions. As such, they appointed head chef Ewan Cullen who’s created a laidback ‘simply steak’ menu, focusing on great-value fire-cooked steaks, tasty sides and platters to share. Of course, we had to go and check it out… Ambience We were welcomed with a big smile by our lovely hostess for the evening, Helen, which set the tone for what was to be a fantastic evening. The interior strikes a balance between luxurious and cosy with wooden frames, marble tabletops and elegantly simple cutlery nailing the sophisticated-yet-welcoming vibe. Decorative distractions are kept to a minimum so the focus is, quite rightly, on the food. Drinks The cocktails might not steal the show here, but they do the job. The Kindling old-fashioned and the mango daiquiri didn’t leave a lasting impression, but the wine selection was excellent. We opted for the house red, which paired beautifully with our meaty mains (as a side note: all the steaks are from grass-fed cattle and supplied by British and Irish farms). Starters We kicked off with the grilled focaccia, which was served with the Kindling signature coriander, lemon and garlic hummous and a balsamic olive dip, along with the brisket and jalapeño croquettes, which came with a tomato and basil dip. The grilled toasted bread was a perfect match for the velvety herby hummous. Although not particularly spicy, the croquettes were still crispy and delicious and the dip was a great accompaniment. Mains The star of the show was undoubtedly the restaurant’s special Wagyu beef steak – it was perfectly cooked to medium-rare, expertly seasoned and full of flavour. The chimichurri sauce we ordered offered a burst of freshness, an excellent foil to the rich buttery meat. Paired with a medley of seasonal grilled greens, including asparagus and tender stem broccoli, and washed down with that house red, this dish was a real winner. The pulled beef brisket roll was another highlight. Think succulent pulled beef, cooked to tender perfection, and infused with a smoky flavour, nestled in a soft warm roll. Caramelised onion jam adds some sweetness while the melted cheese topping ties the dish together in a gooey, comforting embrace. Each bite was a harmonious blend of flavours and textures, making it a standout dish we’d eat again in a second. The wild garlic and chive macaroni cheese also deserves a shoutout for its impressively punchy flavours. Puddings We were pretty full by this stage, but we couldn’t resist trying the mango and passion fruit cheesecake. A tropical dream of a dessert, the cheesecake was melt-in-your-mouth smooth and creamy while the tangy sweetness of the mango and passion fruit elements lifted the richness of the cake, creating a pud that’s both indulgent and refreshing. In short: a perfect end to a great meal. Unlike Kindling’s previous incarnation, the rebrand is perhaps more for the carnivores as although all the sides are vegetarian, there’s only one veggie main (a halloumi burger) and no vegan mains. It is a steak restaurant, after all. But if you’re after a tasty and reasonably affordable meal – steaks start at £14 – with warm and efficient service, we’d recommend you take yourself there. Pro tip for your visit: book a seat at the bar for a front-row view of the chefs in action in the immaculate open kitchen. Open daily; midday – 10pm69 East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HQkindlingrestaurant.com

Yasir Hareed

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