When we heard Flat Iron Brighton was opening, we couldn’t help but get a wee bit excited. Sure, it might now be a chain with 18 branches across the UK, but our early trips to the original London spot back in the 2010s left us with fond memories of affordable, reliably delicious steak. Naturally, we had to see if the Brighton outpost could deliver that same magic by the sea.
Doing one thing, and doing it well, is always a green flag in our book, though it does leave little room for error. In Brighton’s new outpost, the challenge was clear: deliver the perfect steak.
First impressions
Set on Ship Street, the two storey townhouse location has a warm, laid back feel. We were taken upstairs to the first floor, where bay windows frame a view of The Ivy Brighton directly opposite. Candles flicker on tables, and the décor is modern and calming with wood panelling, hanging plants and a soothing ambience ideal for sipping red wine and savouring steak.
Steak, sides and something special
There’s no traditional starter menu here, but your tastebuds are gently eased in with generous helpings of beef dripping popcorn, freshly made on site. Salty, rich and dangerously moreish. We then opted for the special Wagyu ‘steak of the day’, presented in Flat Iron’s signature cut.
In case you were wondering, a flat iron steak comes from the chuck and blade section of the cow, specifically the ‘feather’ muscle beneath the shoulder blade. It’s a cut celebrated for being tender, flavour packed and juicy, often compared to sirloin or fillet in quality.
Our steaks arrived on wooden boards. First impression: the size seemed modest, noticeably smaller than our memory of the London branch. But in an age of cozzie livs, we’re willing to understand this. What it lacked in scale it more than made up for in texture and flavour. The thin steak achieved the golden ratio of crisp, caramelised edges and a melt in the mouth centre that barely needed chewing. We toyed with ordering another to share.
The peppercorn and wild mushroom sauces were both tasty, but on the slightly watery side. The side dishes, however, lifted the whole meal. The crispy bone marrow garlic mash was surprisingly sensational, silky and rich with garlic butter and speckled with shards of batter cooked in beef dripping. The creamed spinach was reliably earthy and comforting, while the mac ’n’ cheese hit every right note: salty, savoury and creamy with a satisfying cheese pull. The beef dripping chips were golden and crisped to perfection.
The sweetest ending
As a lovely finishing touch, we were handed a tiny silver token shaped like a meat cleaver, apparently inspired by a Monopoly board piece, which could be exchanged for a free ice cream on the way out. Yes, it’s partly designed to turn tables efficiently, but a free dessert is never something to moan about. We left happily, soft serve in hand, made with caramelised brown butter and quality vanilla, sprinkled with dark chocolate shavings. A smart touch that leaves you grinning like a toddler, because who doesn’t love a free ice cream?
The verdict
In short, if you’re looking for some of the best steak in Brighton, Flat Iron delivers. It’s a masterclass in how to do one thing brilliantly, and proof of just how happy you can make people with free ice cream.
The BOTI lowdon
Best for: Cosy, red wine-fuelled date nights with lovers or friends
Eat this: The crispy bone marrow garlic mash. And steak of course.
Drink this: Dark Cherry Pinot Noir
BOTI pro tip: Leave room for the free ice cream at the end, you won’t be disappointed
Open Sunday to Wednesday from midday to 10pm and Thursday to Saturday from midday to 11pm.
34 Ship Street, Brighton, BN1 1AD
flatironsteak.co.uk
