Sometimes you just need a really good bit of steak. The kind of cut you would never risk cremating at home because you know you’ll never quite do it justice. When those carnivore cravings hit, there’s a spot on Church Road in Hove that should be firmly on your radar.
Carne has moved house in Hove and the new set-up feels tighter, more confident and very much about the meat. The menu is pleasingly streamlined, still built around their signature steaks and big-on-flavour cuts, all sourced carefully and cooked with proper respect for the animal.
Meet the chefs behind Carne
In the kitchen, Head Chef Alex Lau brings some serious pedigree with experience at Odette’s with Bryn Williams, Frenchie in Paris, Taku and the world-famous Burnt Ends in Singapore. Half Singaporean, half French, he is all about full-animal butchery, live fire and charcoal cooking, with a strong soft spot for local producers.
Alongside him is Brighton-born Isaac, who grew up vegetarian and has fully crossed over to the meat side. He has cooked at local favourites La Choza and Bincho and brings a creative, fire-first approach to Carne’s menu. Between them, Alex and Isaac are the brains behind everything that leaves the pass, from the legendary steaks to seasonal specials and desserts.
Sumptuous interiors
The restaurant itself feels like a bit of an occasion from the moment you walk in. Think dark, sumptuous interiors, chandeliers, open fireplaces and little gold lamps casting a warm glow over the tables. Out the back, the secret garden is a lovely surprise, packed with plants and lit by raised fire pits (see below). It’s exactly the sort of place you want to settle into for a long, indulgent dinner with a bottle (or two) of something good.
On our visit, the crowd was a mix of date-night couples, groups of mates and a slightly rowdier table of lads, which all added to the buzzy, weekend-y feel.
What we ate – and drank
Drinks-wise, a Black Cherry Amaretto Sour and a virgin Passion Fruit Martini were both properly made and very drinkable, the sort of cocktails you somehow finish far too quickly.
From the nibbles section, the Ox Cheek Doughnuts were a fun start. The dough was surprisingly sweet and tasted like a proper doughnut, which made the rich, salty ox cheek filling even more satisfying. Sweet, savoury, and swiftly demolished.
For starters, the charred leeks with capers and hazelnuts were buttery, fresh and full of texture, while the prawns with chilli and lemongrass were beautifully chargrilled and satisfyingly smoky. We would have loved a bit more of the fragrant kick promised by the chilli and herbs, though, and did have slight menu envy eyeing up the lamb chops heading past us.
Mains are where Carne really comes into its own. It would have felt rude not to order a steak, so we went for the sirloin on the bone. It arrived perfectly cooked, as soft as butter with a deep, smoky flavour from the grill that made every mouthful quietly joyful.
It’s a meat-driven restaurant so vegetarian/vegan dishes are few and far between – the Sunday menu is your best bet if you’re a mixed dining group.
We also ordered the beef short rib with coffee and onions, a dish we had fallen hard for on a previous visit when the meat slid off the bone at the mere suggestion of a fork. This time it was a little more cooked and noticeably firmer, so not quite the same melt-in-the-mouth moment, but the glossy, sweet coffee glaze was still completely delicious. Portions of meat are generous, so it feels like good value, especially given the quality of the produce.
On the side, parmesan truffle fries did exactly what you want them to do, all crisp edges and savoury richness, while the iceberg with Caesar dressing and anchovies brought much-needed crunch and freshness to cut through all that indulgence.
The desserts held their own against all that rich, fire-kissed meat. A hefty slab of sticky toffee pudding arrived lounging in a pool of glossy sauce, the sweetness cut cleverly with a scatter of salty popcorn. The chocolate torte with figs was another standout – dense and indulgent with a welcome hit of fruit to keep things interesting.
If you’re in the mood for a proper meat feast in Hove, Carne’s new Church Road home feels like the place to do it: confident cooking over fire, a menu that takes its meat seriously and a setting that turns dinner into a bit of an event.
The BOTI lowdown
Best for: Big steak nights and fire-fuelled feasting with friends, but their £45 bottomless brunch is worth checking out too
Eat this: The sirloin on the bone and the Ox Cheek Doughnuts (and keep an eye on those lamb chops)
Drink this: A Black Cherry Amaretto Sour to start, then a bold red wine to stand up to the meat
BOTI pro tip: Portions are generous, so share a couple of cuts and sides, then finish the night in the secret garden by the fire pits
Open daily; food served from midday – 10pm
Carne, 63 Church Road, Hove, BN3 2BD
carne-hove.co.uk
