Japanese comfort food meets Brighton energy
Taro might be the new kid on Ship Street, but it arrives with seasoned swagger – unsurprising given the original Soho branch opened in 1999, courtesy of Mr Taro himself, who came to London in the late 70s with a mission to serve authentic, everyday Japanese comfort food. Brighton’s outpost, the group’s ninth site, keeps that vibe alive but adds its own coastal charm.
Inside the Brighton branch, it’s warm and easy on the eyes: a yellow-and-green palette, exposed brick, polished wood and a mix of banquette seating and classic chairs that makes the space feel relaxed without sliding into cafeteria territory. It’s bright enough for a lunch drop-in, cosy enough for a casual evening date, and buzzy in that soft, comforting way where clattering chopsticks and noodle slurps become part of the soundtrack.
We spotted a good mix of diners, from solo ramen warriors and couples sharing bites to groups casually ordering everything. It felt reassuringly real, too – we caught snatches of Japanese between tables, which always feels like a quiet vote of confidence. Staff were delightful from the off, striking the perfect balance between friendly warmth and low-key. In short: it’s the sort of place you can settle into without meaning to.
What we ate and drank
The beauty of Taro is that it feeds you properly. Portions are generous, prices don’t feel punishing, and while the menu is slightly overwhelming in its vastness, it’s helpfully split into sections to stop the indecision spiral.
You couldn’t eat at Taro and not indulge in the sushi and, we’ll be honest, you shouldn’t try. We were excited to try the Brighton Roll, exclusive to Brighton. This hometown hero features salmon, prawn, tuna, yellowtail, avocado, asparagus, tobiko and spicy mayo and the eight-piece platter arrived in a spectacular parade of colour and flavour. The Hotate Roll was another thrill – seared scallops, bluefin tuna and avocado all doing silky, elegant things in our mouth. Both were wildly moreish and we demolished them faster than polite society typically allows.
We made friends with the gyoza, too: plump little parcels of well-seasoned comfort. We got stuck into the veggie and prawn and hoovered up both n a heartbeat.
Call us greedy, but we obviously ordered the bento boxes (from £18.90) too and they deserve a huge shout-out. They’re basically Taro’s greatest hits on a tray – perfect if you want maximum variety at great value or if your decision-making ability is currently in the gutter (like ours often is).
Comforting go-to
There are 13 to choose from, but we went for the mixed veg tempura bento and the tuna steak bento. As well as the big protein hits, we got stuck into generous portions of edamame, beansprouts, sushi rolls, sashimi, served with a bowl of boiled rice. The glossy black boxes also come with a steaming bowl of miso soup to start, a comforting go-to when the weather is miserable.
Despite having over-ordered (and happily packed up takeaway boxes for the next day), we had eyes on our neighbours’ steaming bowls of ramen, so we’ll definitely be back to try those next.
It’s worth noting that it’s a great spot for vegans and veggies – they’re properly looked after here making it a safe bet for mixed groups. Think crisp tempura veg, salads, veggie gyoza, tofu bowls, avocado maki and ramen options that don’t rely on fish flakes for flavour.
They handed us the dessert menu and we obviously said yes. It would have been rude not to and safe to say, we’re delighted politeness won the day. The mango and coconut mochi ice-cream hit that chewy-cold sweet spot while the matcha cheesecake delivered a creamy, grassy dose of pure joy.
Drinks are simple but well judged: Japanese beers, whisky and teas, refreshing softs, and an unexpectedly good lychee martini. But the real must-order is the sake – we had the Ozeki served hot and it was gently sweet with a properly warming kick, the kind of drink that keeps you going back for more.
Between the comforting indulgence of bento trays and the gentle buzz of hot sake, it all adds up to a Brighton spot that’s easy to love.
Come hungry – you’ll eat way more than you planned. And it won’t break the bank.
The BOTI Lowdown
Best for: Mid-week comfort feasting, pre-gig scoffing and mixed-diet groups.
Eat this: Brighton Roll for the hometown hit, Hotate Roll for silky indulgence, and the Bento box for the terminally indecisive
Drink this: Hot sake, no debate or an ice-cold Asahi works well too.
BOTI pro tip: If you’re sharing, get both the Brighton Roll and the Hotate Roll – it’s the dream duo. Go early evening before Ship Street fully erupts or head there post-drinks for a late dinner – they’re open ’til 10pm most nights. And don’t be afraid to ask for takeaway boxes for the inevitable leftovers.
60 Ship Street, Brighton, BN1 1AE
Open Mondays – Saturdays midday – 10pm and Sundays midday – 9.30pm
tarorestaurants.uk
